North To The Future

I just got back to Dublin from a 2 week trip home to Chicago. It was pouring rain when I left and had been for about a day earlier. Surprisingly my WOW Air flight was only delayed about 20 minutes. So it was onto the plane after a short delay and on to my first experience flying with the infamous discount transatlantic airline. We rolled away from the bridge towards the runway before stopping...and waiting...for an hour. By that time there was a full blown thunderstorm outside and I was getting a little nervous as the jet engines began to roar and I could feel my body being pressed against my seat. 

The plane lifted off and we made our usual rocky start. As we kept climbing I began to notice a little more turbulence than normal. I was sitting in the aisle seat (it's my preferred seat on all flights) so I leaned over to look out the window. All I could see was rain, clouds, and flashes of lightning followed by thunder. I didn't panic until we made our first drop. I quickly made the instinctual sign of the cross and couldn't help but imagine us descending into the Northwest side Chicago neighborhoods below. The turbulence kept on coming with continuous dips and I could read the other passengers' concerned faces around me. After about 30 minutes it finally came to an end as we reached our cruising altitude. It was definitely nothing to be concerned about but when all was set and done I couldn't help being reminded of my trip to Juneau, Alaska seven years earlier, almost to the day.

This is a story that I am glad I could look back at an old journal entry to remember some finite details. It all began when I went to visit my girlfriend at the time in Juneau, Alaska. It was a typical fall day in Chicago, a little chilly but sun shining and clear skies. I was to catch a morning flight from Chicago to Seattle and then on to Ketchikan, Sitka, and my final destination Juneau. I made my first connection which had a layover of four and a half hours. By the time we were to board the aircraft the weather had turned bringing rain with intermittent thunder and lightning. The flight was delayed by thirty minutes. I was getting anxious and just wanted to reach my final destination as soon as possible. Well, a half hour turned into an hour, and then two.

Alaska Airlines finally gave the go-ahead. They gave us the option to fly and said it's possible that the flight would not make it to Juneau but instead would be grounded in Ketchikan or Sitka if the weather got worse. The other option was that they would put you up in a hotel near the Seattle airport and fly you out sometime the next morning. I talked with some people who took this flight regularly and they said they often fly out in worse weather and it's worth it. If the flight is grounded then you can jump on that same flight the next day. I took the locals advice and about 15 of us boarded the plane to our first stop in Ketchikan.

There was constant turbulence during the two hour flight and I gripped the seat with white knuckles the whole time. We landed in the tiny Ketchikan airport and were immediately informed that we would be delayed to Sitka. I exited the aircraft and headed straight to the bar. The tiny airport consisted of 2 terminals, one concession area, and a dive bar. It would be another hour of waiting. The day kept getting longer and longer. I bellied up to the small bar and ordered an Alaskan Ale and made small talk with the locals. After all, the airport bar was "the" place to be in this tiny Alaskan town. CNN was on the TV and breaking news came in that the Chilean miners were being rescued from the collapsed mine. I remember thinking to myself that I will always remember where I was when those miners were rescued. Sure enough it is still fresh in my mind. A few more beers and some small talk later I was being called to the gate. They gave me the same option: I could continue on or stay in Ketchikan. I decided to continue on and a few more people dropped out. There were five of us rearing on to Sitka.

It was another bumpy one hour flight and as soon as we touched down we were informed that the flight to Juneau was cancelled. We would have to find our own accommodation. I planned to sleep in the airport but one of the hostesses informed me that the airport would close and I had to find elsewhere to sleep. This was mind boggling to me. I figured all airports were 24 hours but I rolled with the punches and continued on my way. By that point I was semi-drunk and had been traveling for around 14 hours. There was a shuttle parked outside the airport picking up people for one of the only lodges in town. I asked the driver if there was anyway I would be able to sleep somewhere for free as I didn't have much money and was headed back to the airport in the morning. He quietly explained that I could take the shuttle to the lodge, ask the reception to hold my bag, and hang out in the reception area until I fell asleep. He said people did it all the time. I was sorted.

I arrived at the Westmark Hotel and everything was going as planned. I dropped my bag at reception and plopped down on the reception couch and watched the big TV over the fireplace. This would be a great place spend the night. I quickly got bored and noticed a bar/restaurant connected to the hotel. I bellied up once again and started talking with a regular who was the local high school's football and basketball coach as well as the town sheriff. We went drink for drink until the bar closed. That's when he invited me to check out all the local bars and to meet his friends. By this point I was well drunk and ready for an adventure. All the while not thinking about my 7am flight to Juneau in the morning.

Our first stop was Ernie's. The definition of a dive bar, filled with local character's smoking Newport 100's and drinking well whiskey. I received the VIP treatment and was paraded around the bar to be introduced to each individual. I remember getting in a lengthy conversation about Carlos Boozer, a once Sitka native, then playing for the Chicago Bulls in the NBA. It was most definitely the town's claim to fame and I was honored to share in that pride. All the while I was given free shots and told to stick around the next day. I explained that it was impossible as I grabbed a soft pack of Parliament Lights from the cigarette machine in the corner. My new friend signaled to meet that we should continue on. With slightly slurred speech I left with a promise that I would be back again one day.

Photo Credit: https://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g60966-d8457757-i141786096-Ernie_s_Old_Time_Saloon-Sitka_Alaska.html

Photo Credit: https://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g60966-d8457757-i141786096-Ernie_s_Old_Time_Saloon-Sitka_Alaska.html

Out of the bar we turned the corner and walked a bit until we reached Pioneer Bar. When we walked in I found the age range very interesting. It was probably something like 15 to 60 years old. I guess that's how it is when you have a small population and limited watering holes. It was packed out and everyone was having a time. Photos of boats, caught fish, families, and regulars took up every inch of the walls. I walked around staring at each one imagining the life these people lived in this small town. Something I couldn't really wrap my head around at the time. I was just happy to be there. That's when i noticed a lot of people staring at me probably thinking 'who's the new guy?' I was paired up with a couple who were also in town visiting from somewhere in the lower 48 and we were surrounded with people asking questions and trying to prove their worth. I felt very important. Before long I was on the verge of a brown out and searching around for my friend. It seemed he pulled the old Irish goodbye on me. It was around 4am and I decided now was the best time to head back to the hotel to sleep.

Photo Credit: https://www.tripadvisor.ie/Restaurant_Review-g60966-d523119-Reviews-The_Pioneer_Bar-Sitka_Alaska.html

Photo Credit: https://www.tripadvisor.ie/Restaurant_Review-g60966-d523119-Reviews-The_Pioneer_Bar-Sitka_Alaska.html

I wandered aimlessly through the now cold and rainy roads of Sitka until I reached Westmark. the doors were locked. I panicked until I saw the sign to ring the bell, which I did. A woman answered the door promptly and asked me to show my key. I explained that I didn't have one, that my bag was in the back, and I was just going to stay in the lobby for the rest of the night. She looked puzzled and explained that I couldn't do that if I wasn't staying at the hotel. I pleaded but she said she legally couldn't allow it and apologized while closing the door. I sat there against the wall wet, cold, and verbally condemning myself for going out on the town. I faded into sleep but quickly woke because I was shivering. I needed warmth and sleep and I was determined to get it.

I popped up and walked around the building looking for a back entrance. I quickly found a side glass door that lie in between the bar/restaurant and hotel. Of course it was locked and could only be open with a key card. That's when I spotted my hero; the cleaning lady vacuuming the hallway. I motioned over to her to come to the door. When she opened I stated apologetically that I forgot my key card (stupid me...). She was more than willing to help me out. That's when I caught site of the woman at the front desk through a window in the lobby. I ducked down as the cleaning lady went back to her business. Thinking quickly I decided to army crawl across the carpeted floor into the lobby near the couch I was sitting on earlier. If I raised my head I would be busted. Thinking quickly again, which was surprising because I was very drunk, I pulled out the couch and proceeded to army crawl behind it. I wedged myself between the wall and the back of the couch. I waited to see if there was any movement but all was calm. I set my alarm to get up in the next few hours so I could make the free shuttle to the airport in the morning.

The time soon arrived and I was awakened by my phone alarm going off right next to my ear. I put it there to ensure I made this flight or else all of this struggle was for nothing. I slowly unwedged myself from behind the couch and cautiously raised my head to see if anyone was sitting on it or hanging around in the lobby. The coast was clear. Then I raised my head a little higher to peer over at reception to see if they seemed  suspicious. All clear. People were collecting their bags to get on the shuttle and I was just in time to get in line. Luckily the woman working the reception that morning was not the same as the woman from a few hours earlier, there was no question as to where I slept...

I touched down in Juneau just over an hour later; I bought a toothbrush from the convenient store and brushed my teeth in the airport bathroom. I was finally ready to take on the last frontier, hungover and extremely tired.

 

The Pharaoh of Egypt

It was the second semester of my Junior year of college and I was studying abroad in Rome. Well, I only had classes on Tuesday's and Thursday's so it was more like an extended holiday. At the beginning of that trip I made a promise to myself that I was going to step out of my comfort zone and really take in everything the world had to offer. 

A friend that I made at my school had the same sense of adventure as me and approached me one day to see if I wanted to travel to Cairo, Egypt with him. I first asked how much but in the back of my head it didn't matter, I wanted to go to Africa (funny note: as I am writing this Toto's Africa came on). By chance he had found an EgyptAir flight for 80 euro round trip, but we had to act fast.  It was definitely on and we rounded up a few others who were looking for a thrill. A friend of mine from grade school studying in a different university in Rome joined as well as 2 other girls from our program. The trip was set for 2 weeks from then.

For the next 2 weeks I left most of the planning up to my friend. After all I was just going with the flow. I did know for sure that I wanted to see the Great Pyramids, The Sphinx, and the Nile. All of the Cairo go-tos and places I only dreamed of visiting after making it through the Egypt unit of Ms. O'Shea's 6th grade history class. On the day all 5 of us met at Termini train station a little nervous but very excited. We headed to Fiumicino Airport where we boarded our EgyptAir flight without any delay. I remember the flight was only 3 hours and they played one of the High School Musical's during the flight. 

We arrived in Cairo International Airport that night and immediately it was a culture shock. It was amazing to think that only 3 hours by plane from Italy you can find yourself in a different country on a different continent filled with an entirely different culture and set of beliefs. I was ready to take it all in. We had a car from our hostel waiting for us at the airport and a man with a sign greeted us after we paid for our visas and made our way through security. He spoke very little English but we could tell was very friendly and happy that we were there. My friend was so proud that he was able to find a hostel for 6 USD per night and pick up and drop off to the airport. I can say I was proud too because this trip definitely would not break the bank.

Gazing out of the window like a little kid as we drove through city was like being transported into a different world. The only lighting came from the shops that lined the streets and barbecue grills down every alleyway. People and dogs were everywhere cutting in and out of traffic heading who knows where. Our driver turned down a quiet street off the main road an there we were in front of the Sara Inn Hostel, our home for the next 7 days. 

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The hostel was interesting to say the least and would have to suit for the next week. We made our way to the 7th floor in one of those old birdcage elevators that ran up the middle of a staircase that wound up the inside of the building. 3 very nice Egyptian lads met us at reception, insisted that they take our bags, and showed us to our room. It was a decent sized room with 2 king sized beds and an ensuite bathroom. The 2 of us lads decided to take turns sleeping on the floor because we were true gentleman. We settled in and decided to walk around the immediate area and then take it easy so we would all be well rested for the next day.

We quickly realized that since Egypt was predominantly a Muslim country there weren't really any bars or places to find alcohol. This was something we didn't previously think about but would only be a small setback on our trip; or so we thought. It was getting late so we headed back to the hostel. That's where we ran into Deanna in the lobby and where our local adventure began. She was a white woman from upstate New York currently living with her husband in Jordan. She and her husband were both reporters and the day before they were inside the Gaza strip covering the hardships that the people faced just to survive. They both had to get smuggled back out and Deanna and her husband were separated. They hadn't been in contact since. She explained that whenever something like that would happen they set their meeting place for the Sara Inn Hostel in Cairo. So that's the situation she was currently in. If you could imagine I was enthralled by her story, calm attitude, and thirsting for more information. She had to get some sleep but offered to show us around the next night. I couldn't wait.

The next day we hired a driver and tour guide from the hostel to take us to all those Cairo go-tos. It was so cheap, around 20 USD a person, to take us around for the rest of the trip. I felt a little guilty but the driver and tour guide ensured me that they were grateful for the money and to show us their city. I will be sure to build upon that amazing experience in a later post. Just think spice markets, kusherie, and a traditional Egyptian wedding.

We arrived back to the hostel that evening where Deanna was waiting to take us on an adventure. The girls were tired from the day and a little suspicious of the whole situation so decided to stay back. As we walked into the night Deanna explained that she was going to take us to the only liquor store in Cairo to get beer and liquor. It was owned and operated by local Coptic Christians who could be identified by a black cross tattooed on the inside of their wrists, given to them as children. We arrived at a busy intersection in front of the liquor store on the corner. As we stepped in we were surrounded by shelves of knock-off American and European liquor. We loaded up on Stella Lager Beer and a bottle of good ole Johnny Walkins whiskey. As we stepped outside Deanna told us to wait there as she had to run a quick errand. She told us to be aware and keep our heads on a swivel but that we would be safe. Two white guys holding bags of cans in a predominantly Muslim country in front of a Christian liquor store; I wasn't worried.

Deanna returned about 15 minutes later and we started the walk back. She told us she had a surprise for us when we returned to the hostel. We were a little puzzled but really thought nothing of it and were focusing on taking in everything around us. Upon arriving back at the hostel we were greeted by some of the workers and we were led up to the rooftop. This wasn't open to guests but since we were with Deanna we were receiving some special treatment. They turned on the lights to the kitchen and I watched all the roaches scatter back into darkness. I kept my cringing to a minimum and followed everyone through a small door at the back wall, which I thought was a broom closet at first. One by one we climbed up a small metal ladder until we reached moonlight. We were met with a breathtaking view of the bustling city and the wide winding Nile River. I walked over to the furthest ledge and just stared in awe, thanking God for the situation I was in. 

Deanna introduced me to two of the hostel workers that she had gotten to know throughout the years and told us she had another Egyptian friend that would be joining shortly. In the meantime she asked me if I knew how to roll, reached into her satchel, and pulled out a sack of tobacco and a brick of hash that was forearm length. She explained that this was her surprise. I was very surprised. So there we were, the five of us, rolling spliffs on the rooftop of a hostel in Cairo, Egypt overlooking the Nile River. I never put it past myself that I might've ended up in a situation like that.

Soon the girls joined us on the rooftop to have a beer and to take in the spectacular view. My friend from grade school reminded me that we had a mutual friend in military school that was currently stationed outside of Cairo studying and training. We went downstairs to use the computer and Skype chatted him. After a few minutes he responded and said he would be able to sneak off base and join us in about an hour. It was finally all coming together.  

An hour later my friend successfully pulled off a jailbreak and joined us on the roof. Deanna's other Egyptian friend showed up and the party continued. I asked his name and he said that I could call him the Pharaoh of Egypt. He was wearing a head wrap around his head and had a big grin on his face so I didn't question it. We were all passing around spliff after spliff, drinking Stellas and Johnny Walkins, and laughing about the different quirks of our cultures. That's when Deanna told us to teach The Pharaoh of Egypt one of the most popular college-aged American things to do at the time; shot-gunning a beer. He looked puzzled and didn't understand the concept or the purpose of such a thing but really wanted to learn anyways. I cracked a hole in his can with my keys and told him to put it to his lips and when I said so to pop the lid and drink. I gave the go ahead and it was down the hatch. As soon as he was finished I told him to throw his can down which made him puzzled again. He did it anyways and another huge smile came across his face. I impeded some not so needed American practices on an Egyptian man that night. But we were all the better for it.

The night wore on, the girls went to bed, the hostel workers retreated, and my friend stumbled back to his base. Deanna, The Pharaoh of Egypt, my friend, and I stayed up to watch the sunset over The Nile River. At that moment I was 100% content and anxiety free. I was ready for the rest of the trip and whatever Cairo had to throw my way.

 

Let's Start From Here

I've been keeping a journal for the past 13 years and I finally want to share some of my stories with the rest of the world. I was born and raised in Chicago, Illinois but have been living in Dublin, Ireland for the past 9 months. Ever since I first traveled outside of the United States in 2005 I knew I was destined to continue to travel the world.

I want to use this blog to share my experiences with all of you and also give some travel tips that will allow you to trek lightly and inexpensively. I will take you through some excerpts from my journal as well as other memorable stories that have stuck with me after all these years. It might not be in chronological order but in the end the story will reveal itself. Along with the truth I want to share my passion for fiction writing. You can find the leakings of my subconscious, my dreams, and my everyday unique way of thinking through my compositions in the 'Short Stories' section.

I'd like to use this space as a creative outlet for myself, a guide for travelers, and eventually for a million dollar book deal so I can continue to live a life of continuous adventure.

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