The Pharaoh of Egypt

It was the second semester of my Junior year of college and I was studying abroad in Rome. Well, I only had classes on Tuesday's and Thursday's so it was more like an extended holiday. At the beginning of that trip I made a promise to myself that I was going to step out of my comfort zone and really take in everything the world had to offer. 

A friend that I made at my school had the same sense of adventure as me and approached me one day to see if I wanted to travel to Cairo, Egypt with him. I first asked how much but in the back of my head it didn't matter, I wanted to go to Africa (funny note: as I am writing this Toto's Africa came on). By chance he had found an EgyptAir flight for 80 euro round trip, but we had to act fast.  It was definitely on and we rounded up a few others who were looking for a thrill. A friend of mine from grade school studying in a different university in Rome joined as well as 2 other girls from our program. The trip was set for 2 weeks from then.

For the next 2 weeks I left most of the planning up to my friend. After all I was just going with the flow. I did know for sure that I wanted to see the Great Pyramids, The Sphinx, and the Nile. All of the Cairo go-tos and places I only dreamed of visiting after making it through the Egypt unit of Ms. O'Shea's 6th grade history class. On the day all 5 of us met at Termini train station a little nervous but very excited. We headed to Fiumicino Airport where we boarded our EgyptAir flight without any delay. I remember the flight was only 3 hours and they played one of the High School Musical's during the flight. 

We arrived in Cairo International Airport that night and immediately it was a culture shock. It was amazing to think that only 3 hours by plane from Italy you can find yourself in a different country on a different continent filled with an entirely different culture and set of beliefs. I was ready to take it all in. We had a car from our hostel waiting for us at the airport and a man with a sign greeted us after we paid for our visas and made our way through security. He spoke very little English but we could tell was very friendly and happy that we were there. My friend was so proud that he was able to find a hostel for 6 USD per night and pick up and drop off to the airport. I can say I was proud too because this trip definitely would not break the bank.

Gazing out of the window like a little kid as we drove through city was like being transported into a different world. The only lighting came from the shops that lined the streets and barbecue grills down every alleyway. People and dogs were everywhere cutting in and out of traffic heading who knows where. Our driver turned down a quiet street off the main road an there we were in front of the Sara Inn Hostel, our home for the next 7 days. 

The hostel was interesting to say the least and would have to suit for the next week. We made our way to the 7th floor in one of those old birdcage elevators that ran up the middle of a staircase that wound up the inside of the building. 3 very nice Egyptian lads met us at reception, insisted that they take our bags, and showed us to our room. It was a decent sized room with 2 king sized beds and an ensuite bathroom. The 2 of us lads decided to take turns sleeping on the floor because we were true gentleman. We settled in and decided to walk around the immediate area and then take it easy so we would all be well rested for the next day.

We quickly realized that since Egypt was predominantly a Muslim country there weren't really any bars or places to find alcohol. This was something we didn't previously think about but would only be a small setback on our trip; or so we thought. It was getting late so we headed back to the hostel. That's where we ran into Deanna in the lobby and where our local adventure began. She was a white woman from upstate New York currently living with her husband in Jordan. She and her husband were both reporters and the day before they were inside the Gaza strip covering the hardships that the people faced just to survive. They both had to get smuggled back out and Deanna and her husband were separated. They hadn't been in contact since. She explained that whenever something like that would happen they set their meeting place for the Sara Inn Hostel in Cairo. So that's the situation she was currently in. If you could imagine I was enthralled by her story, calm attitude, and thirsting for more information. She had to get some sleep but offered to show us around the next night. I couldn't wait.

The next day we hired a driver and tour guide from the hostel to take us to all those Cairo go-tos. It was so cheap, around 20 USD a person, to take us around for the rest of the trip. I felt a little guilty but the driver and tour guide ensured me that they were grateful for the money and to show us their city. I will be sure to build upon that amazing experience in a later post. Just think spice markets, kusherie, and a traditional Egyptian wedding.

We arrived back to the hostel that evening where Deanna was waiting to take us on an adventure. The girls were tired from the day and a little suspicious of the whole situation so decided to stay back. As we walked into the night Deanna explained that she was going to take us to the only liquor store in Cairo to get beer and liquor. It was owned and operated by local Coptic Christians who could be identified by a black cross tattooed on the inside of their wrists, given to them as children. We arrived at a busy intersection in front of the liquor store on the corner. As we stepped in we were surrounded by shelves of knock-off American and European liquor. We loaded up on Stella Lager Beer and a bottle of good ole Johnny Walkins whiskey. As we stepped outside Deanna told us to wait there as she had to run a quick errand. She told us to be aware and keep our heads on a swivel but that we would be safe. Two white guys holding bags of cans in a predominantly Muslim country in front of a Christian liquor store; I wasn't worried.

Deanna returned about 15 minutes later and we started the walk back. She told us she had a surprise for us when we returned to the hostel. We were a little puzzled but really thought nothing of it and were focusing on taking in everything around us. Upon arriving back at the hostel we were greeted by some of the workers and we were led up to the rooftop. This wasn't open to guests but since we were with Deanna we were receiving some special treatment. They turned on the lights to the kitchen and I watched all the roaches scatter back into darkness. I kept my cringing to a minimum and followed everyone through a small door at the back wall, which I thought was a broom closet at first. One by one we climbed up a small metal ladder until we reached moonlight. We were met with a breathtaking view of the bustling city and the wide winding Nile River. I walked over to the furthest ledge and just stared in awe, thanking God for the situation I was in. 

Deanna introduced me to two of the hostel workers that she had gotten to know throughout the years and told us she had another Egyptian friend that would be joining shortly. In the meantime she asked me if I knew how to roll, reached into her satchel, and pulled out a sack of tobacco and a brick of hash that was forearm length. She explained that this was her surprise. I was very surprised. So there we were, the five of us, rolling spliffs on the rooftop of a hostel in Cairo, Egypt overlooking the Nile River. I never put it past myself that I might've ended up in a situation like that.

Soon the girls joined us on the rooftop to have a beer and to take in the spectacular view. My friend from grade school reminded me that we had a mutual friend in military school that was currently stationed outside of Cairo studying and training. We went downstairs to use the computer and Skype chatted him. After a few minutes he responded and said he would be able to sneak off base and join us in about an hour. It was finally all coming together.  

An hour later my friend successfully pulled off a jailbreak and joined us on the roof. Deanna's other Egyptian friend showed up and the party continued. I asked his name and he said that I could call him the Pharaoh of Egypt. He was wearing a head wrap around his head and had a big grin on his face so I didn't question it. We were all passing around spliff after spliff, drinking Stellas and Johnny Walkins, and laughing about the different quirks of our cultures. That's when Deanna told us to teach The Pharaoh of Egypt one of the most popular college-aged American things to do at the time; shot-gunning a beer. He looked puzzled and didn't understand the concept or the purpose of such a thing but really wanted to learn anyways. I cracked a hole in his can with my keys and told him to put it to his lips and when I said so to pop the lid and drink. I gave the go ahead and it was down the hatch. As soon as he was finished I told him to throw his can down which made him puzzled again. He did it anyways and another huge smile came across his face. I impeded some not so needed American practices on an Egyptian man that night. But we were all the better for it.

The night wore on, the girls went to bed, the hostel workers retreated, and my friend stumbled back to his base. Deanna, The Pharaoh of Egypt, my friend, and I stayed up to watch the sunset over The Nile River. At that moment I was 100% content and anxiety free. I was ready for the rest of the trip and whatever Cairo had to throw my way.