We exited the train into Irkutsk Station after 6 days journey on the train from Moscow to Irkutsk. My two bunkmates and I were still very much friends but there was a hint on both sides that we could use the time away from each other. We walked through a long tunnel underneath the tracks to the main station waiting area which consisted of those old flip arrival/departure boards, a small shop, and a lot of old and worn out people waiting. Waiting maybe for a train or maybe nothing at all. It didn’t seem that a whole lot was going on in one of the largest cities in Siberia. Looks can be deceiving though. The next day, 9 May 2019, was Victory Day and there would be military marches and the like all over town. I only had a few days until my next train to Mongolia so thought it wise to get to where I really wanted to go; Listvyanka and Lake Baikal. The deepest freshwater lake in the world and the only home to freshwater seals.
My bunkmates and I gave our sincerest goodbyes and promises of meeting up again. Unfortunately, that didn’t end up happening and I sure did miss the fun we had together. I went to the small shop in the station and got a coffee, well the Siberian version of coffee which is instant 3-in-1 coffee, milk powder, and sugar. That was a common theme throughout my time in Siberia. I don’t think coffee beans can make it that far or there isn’t really a market for it. Having a coffee cup tattooed on my leg you would think I would make a better effort to search for it. But, I think I had different motives then.
I remember getting money from a dodgy ATM in the train station and headed out to the street to figure out how I would get to Lake Baikal. No one spoke English so it was on to the Naver App (the Russian equivalent of Google Maps at the time) to see if I could find the easiest transport. It was telling me to take the 19 bus to the city centre and then walk a while to another bus. I looked around and there were no real signs pointing to a no. 19 bus or any other transport for that matter. So I followed the map to a nearby street and waited. I saw a bus come by and down the road, a random person waved it down and boarded in the middle of the street. Monkey see monkey do. I waited a while, a little concerned that my bus would never come until there it was in all its wet and pollution stained glory. I waved frantically and by a miracle, the bus driver stopped. I boarded, showed him my phone, he mumbled, and I took a seat. As soon as I saw how the next person who boarded paid, I followed suit. Now I was a local. Well, not quite but felt as if I had accomplished something.
I sat there a bit weary but also excited to get to my destination. It was only about a 10-minute ride until I started seeing signs of life as well as the infamous Irkutsk wooden houses that I read about in my bunkmate’s guidebook. It felt as if I had gone back in time and that life was just a little slower here. I arrived at what felt like my stop and threw the driver a quick ‘spasiba’ before exiting the bus with my packed-to-the-gills backpack. It was a short look around and then off to a market where I would find my next mode of transport.
It was still very early so not much in the way of restaurants and shops were open. I was starving for something other than instant coffee, instant noodles, and bread with meat which was my diet for the last 6 days. I couldn’t forget about my daily dose of vodka and beer in the dining cart with all my new Russian friends who I know I would never see again. If I had I am almost sure that neither I nor them would recognize each other.
I arrived as the market was just starting to come to life. The vendors’ best fruits and vegetables were being showcased in the front and there were a few older folks selling Soviet Era trinkets. A time that many Russians missed dearly. I could only take a short stroll because I needed to find out where my bus was departing from. Again, there were no signs. Just local people familiar with how to get where engrained in their daily routine. I noticed some people getting in and out of people mover vans and decided to investigate. Not much to my surprise after showing some drivers the Russian translation for Lake Baikal it was confirmed that I was in the right area. My driver gave me the ‘just wait’ gesture with his hands equivalent to a pass-interference call from the ref in American Football. I waited and after the driver smoked a few cigarettes and chatted enough to his fellow comrades he signaled for all of the people who were now congregated outside of the van to get going. We all jammed into this old van and off on a 1.5 hour journey to my destination.
After what felt like days I finally arrived at what I believed to be my stop. The massive lake in front of me kind of gave it away. I walked away from the lake up a steep dirt road in search of my hostel and in need of a short nap until I did some exploring. Finally, amongst many rundown houses and amidst the forest, I found my large log-built cabin of a hostel. It was surrounded by many other cabins and a vast amount of land. I walked in and set my stuff down, back aching. It looked like no one was staying in the whole compound. I was a little out of season.
A few minutes later a distraught younger Asian-looking woman came out of the room next to the entrance and asked me who I was. I explained who I was and that I was booked in to stay the night there. Just as I finished my introduction an older looking Asian woman came from upstairs and started yelling to the woman in Russian. They both guided me up to the kitchen and offered me a cup of coffee. Me, having no idea what was going on, graciously accepted the warm hospitality but in the back of my mind, I just wanted to lay down and be alone. The younger woman sat down with me and poured out her whole life story to me. The reason why she was so distraught was that she had her birthday party the night before and there was an excessive amount of drinking and the police were called due to a robbery.
So, it turns out amidst her party her ex-boyfriend, who she is not on good terms with, showed up unexpectedly. They put their differences aside for a few hours but when he left she noticed that money equivalent to $5,000 had been taken from the hostel safe. She called the police who showed up and did a full investigation including fingerprinting and interrogating. But, the ex-boyfriend was nowhere to be found. What made matters worse was that the “hostel” did not have a permit to operate for accommodation so upon lying they would not take the investigation any further. There was even more to the story about that night but I don’t think this post warrants those crude events. She explained to me that she dated an Englishman many moons ago and they had a child who then lived with him in London. She was born and raised in a small mining town in Northeastern Siberia where she explained I should never go. I was completely overwhelmed and waiting for some more information on the availability of my room. That’s when the older woman who I soon found out to be her mother grabbed my arm and showed me to my four-bed room. I assumed no one else would be staying. I then explained that I would be taking a rest but the young woman was keen to show me around when I awoke.
After a short but incredible nap, I went out to the kitchen and cooked the last of my instant ramen noodles leftover from the train. I needed a bit of fuel if I was going to get my second wind. That’s when the young woman appeared once more and prodded me about what I wanted to do. I told her I wanted to hike but she explained that it was far too late to begin a hike and it would take a while to get to the trailhead. I thought about it and said I would like to jump into the famous lake. She seemed a little shocked and then said I could do Banya near the lake which is a Russian sauna. Having done no research of my own and having no plan and limited time I decided to take her advice.
A 30-minute walk down to the road next to the lake we met a man waiting for us. I paid him half of the money I would owe him and then we went to go get beer as is a must during Banya. When we came back he was gone and she led me across the road towards the lake. We went down a flight of stairs to a metal-looking shed and opened the door into what looked like an 80s-esque porn set with a dried-up ceramic fountain in the middle and Christmas lights adorning the ceilings. When I first gazed to my left I couldn’t believe the views out onto the lake. That view alone made it all worth it. I sat in awe as she told me to undress and put on my sauna hat. I opted to wear a swimsuit as I didn’t know what was customary. Probably the only time have in my world sauna experience outside of America…
The man we met earlier was shoveling wood into a furnace in the next room and showed me what to do and what not to do before opening a large metal door that dropped straight into Lake Baikal and it’s freezing April waters. I spotted ice sheets in the distance. He motioned to go into the extremely hot sauna and then into the frigid water back and forth until I felt I achieved what I had come there to do. I cracked open an ice-cold Siberian tallboy and started my hot and cold repetitions. The sauna was the hottest I have ever remembered being in and the lake was so refreshing right after that I don’t think I was able to experience it’s truly frigid temperatures. It was a perfect balance only realized after done about 30 times and 5 beers later. By the end of it, I was ready to go.